Buttonhole-stitching machine.



E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLB STITCHING MAGHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEO. 28, 1909.

1 ,024,490. Patented Apr. 30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

53 l/4/46 fil@- //z @L my' l E. B. ALLEN. BUTTON HOLE STITGHIN-G- MACHINEr APPLICATION FILED DEU. 28, 1909. 1 ,024,490. Patented Apr. 30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITNESSES: I /Nl/EN'OR l E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DBO. 28, 1909. 1,024,490. Patented Apr. 30, 1912.

6 SHEBTS-SEBET 3.

Qy/W ATTORNEY BUTTONHOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

E. B. ALLEN.

WW ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DBO. 28, 1909.

Patented Apr. 30, 1912.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

/NvENon m @aff TTORNE Y E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE STITGHING MAGHINRU I APPLICATION FILED DBO, 28, 1909.

lPatenfjd Apr. 30, 1912.

8 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

UNITED STATES PATEN T OFFICE.

EDWARD B. ALLEN, 0F BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TOTHE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

BUTTONHOLE-STITCHING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented apr. ao, 1912;

To afi' whom it may concern: I

lie it known that- I. EDWARD B. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the count-y ,of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful lmpr'oveiiients in Buttonliole-Stitching Machines, of which the following is a specification. reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to an improvement in buttonhole cutting and stitching inachines, and more particularly in that class of machines for producing eyedor eyeletend buttonholes and requiring a relative turning movement between the stitchforniing mechanism and the work-clamp in producingl the radiating stitchesy around the eye of the buttonliole.

The invention has for its principal objects to providea buttoiiliole machine, adapted for producingr eyelet-eiid button-l --holes with barsl or cross-stays across the smaller ends. which shall be capable of rapidly performing its work, adapted to be, quicklyset in motion andstopped with a minimum amount of jar and straining of the apidly moving parts, and of such a 'character' that a single machine is adapted to be adjusted for producing buttonholes in either cloth or leather.

In its preferred forni, iii which the machine is provided with stitching mechanism peiforiiiing semi-rotations respectively during the stitching of the eye of a buttonhole and subsequently to the` stitching operation. the invention includes means` for varying the' number and length of barring stitches independentliY of the side stitches, or for wholly preventing the barring operation, the clamp being laterallyI jogged to increase the length of the side stitches for the bai'- rilig operation: inans independent ofthe .bar-producing means for adjusting the length of tliifliiitttiiilitile and the spacing of the stitches along the sides and around the eye of the same: means for tripping the stop-niotioii into action to arrest the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism independently of the claiiip-jogging means and for accelerating tlie'operation of the feeding mechanism to bring the parts to initial position after a buttonhole has been stitched; means vfor closing` the work-holder ytipon the Work by the advance of the cutter to cutting position to fol-inthe slit and for opening the saine b v the return sehn-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism to initial position after the stitching operation is completed; and means for insuring against the starting of the cutting operation while the stitching operation is proceeding. and for preventing the starting of the stitching mechanism while the cutting` device is in operation.

The invention also includes certainy other features to be hereinafter described and set forth in the appended claims, f l n In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a perspective view of the entire machine with the side covers of the bracket-ann and base and the face-plate of the head of the bracket-ariii removed to expose cci-tain op erative parts of the mechanism. Fig. :2 is a rear side view of the machine with the frame in section, and F ig.V 2a a plan of the looper mechanism and its support. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of tlieinachine with the hollow standardof the, bracket-arm in section and the parts supported by the lateral member of the bracket-arm removed. and Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view'of the iiiachine; the extreme rearward end of the f ame and the adjacent driving paits being omitted in both views. Fig. 5 is a front end view of the machine with the hinged front end of the base and the face-plateof the bracket-arm removed. Fig. G is a rear end view of the lower part ot' the machine with t-he bed in' section. Fig. T a partial view of the upper clamp supporting plate and certain of the parts which it carries. and Fig. ll a similar view of the lower claiiip-plate. Figs. l2 and 13 are detail views of the cap-plates for the spreader slide-frame. Fig. 1l is a plan of the feedwheel, its actuating means and the members of the clmhp-controlling devices which it actuates. Fig. 15 is a detail sectional view of a portion of the feed-wheel and one of said members of the clampcontrolling means, and Fig. i6 a side elevation of a portion of the feed-wheel showing the tripping studs for the stop-motion and barring mechanisms. Figfl isa detail perspective view of/the cutter-shaft clutch device; and Figs. 18vand 19 are respectively, a side view and transverse section ofthe cam-lever of into the path of movement of the stud' 33 by means of which the slide-block 25 is thrust inwardly to disengage its clutch-tooth 31 from the pulley-wheel clutch-tooth 30 so as to uncouple the driven from the driving member. As the lug 33 arrives at initial position, it engages the stop-shoulder 39 of the cam-plate 37. and it is prevented from rebounding by the adjacent edge lof the latch-plate 48 which snaps'into operative position as the lugf passes over it. By the means thus described the cutter-shaft 19 is insured only a single turning movement for each clutch-releasing actuation of the controlling lever 36.

The traveling buttonhole cutting device of the present improvement is similar in gen` eral construction to that disclosed in my United States Patent No. 864,144, of August 27, 1907, although differing therefrom in its actuating means. As in the former construction, this device comprises a hollow post or standard 54 having a base or footplate mounted to slide longitudinally in a suitable guideway provided therefor in the bed-plate 2, the foot-plate having a throat orrdie 56 forming the lower cutting member and adapted to be entered by a knife or cutter 57 formed on anarm 58 rigid with the cutter-bar 59 which reciprocates vertically in the post or standard 54. The post 54 has in its forward face a clearance slot 60 through which passes the lateral roller-stud 61 projecting from the cutter-bar 59. The outer end of the stud 61 is embraced by the longitudinally slotted forward end 62 of the arm 63 of a rock-lever, fulcrumed by means of the transverse pin 64 upon the bearing arms 65 extending from the standard 3 of the bracket-arm, and having a rearwardly extending arm 66 provided with a lateral roller-stud'67 entering Ithe cam-groove. 68 in the rearward face of the cam-disk 69 xed upon the cutter-shaft 19.

Extending from the rear side of the post 54 is a split lug 7 O formed with a transverse socket embracing the `body of a pivotal pin 71 having an eccentri'c stud 72 upon which is confined by means of the screw 73 theapertured forward end of a link-bar -74 whose opposite end is formed with a longitudinal slot affording a slidewayvfor the opposite edges of a guide-block 75 loosely mounted upon the cutter-shaft 19, by which the linkbar 74 is supported. -The link-bar is provided wit-lr a roller-stud 76 extendin rearwardly therefrominto a cam-Slot 77 formed in the forward face of a cam-Wheel 78 fixed upon the cutter-shaft 19. The split lug is clamped upon the body of the pivotal pin 71 by means of a screw 79 passing through the ear 80 of one member of the lug and tapped into a project-ion S1 in the other member, and by loosening the screwp7 9, the pin may be turned to change the position of the stud 72 to afford a slight longitudinal adjustment of the operative or cutting position of the cutter in relation to the stitchforming mechanism. The rotation of the cutter-shaft causes the advance bodily of the cutter-frame comprising the post 5 4 and its foot-plate 55, by the act-ion of the cam 78 upon the link-bar 74, and the knife or :futter 57 constituting the movable member of the cutting device is depressed by means of the cam 69 and rock-lever 63 66; the cutter 57 being raised and the cutter-frame returned to initial position by reciprocal actions of their respective actuating devices.

As herein represented the general constructions of the needle-reciprocating and jogging devices and the looper mechanism are similar to those of my Patent No. 945,148. of January 4, 1910, although differing therefrom in certain details. The needle-bar 82 is journaled to rotate in an upper bearing 83 in the head of the bracketarm and is journaled to reciprocate in the rotary bearing sleeve or bushing 81 mount.- edin the lower portion of the head 5 of the bracket-arm. being connected to rotate with the bearing sleeve by means of the spline The bearing sleeve 84 ca rries beneath the head 5 a block 86 to which is secured the depending guide-plate 87 having the parallel slots or runways 8S connected at the upper ends and separated by thetongue 89 with wedge-shaped upper end. o To the threaded lower end of the needle-bar is secured by means ofthe clamp-nut 90 the clamp-supporting yoke 91 carrying the upper conical-pointed bearing screw 92 having its head seated firmly within a countersunk recess in the' top of the yoke and an adjustable conical-pointed bearing screw 93 tapped into the lower member of the yoke and secured adjustably therein by means of the lock-nut 94. The laterally movable needle-clamp 95 is provided with the usual socket .in which th'e shank of theneed'le 96 is clamped by'means ofthe screw 95X, and has a rearwardly extending boss 97 with bearing sockets, entered by the points of the screws 92 and 93, while at the forward side the clamp is provided with an upwardly extending arm 98 'having a lateral pin 99 adapted to enter and move vertically in either of the parallel slots 88 inthe guideplate 87. The upper portion of the needlebar is reduced to form a shoulder and has confined thereon between said shoulder and the fixed collar 100, the loose collar'lOl havtion and moving laterally in readiness for its next descent. In the succeeding edgethrust of the needle through the buttonhole slit, it passes through itsv previously distended thread loop and presents a second loop which is entered by the threaded looper 144 and its overlying spreader 146, while the non-threaded looper and -its coperating spreader are simultaneously withdrawn to shed the depth stitch` loop. As the needle rises and the threaded looper continues to advance, the overlying spreader is shifted laterally to form and spread a loop of looper thread extending from the eyed point of the looper upwardly to the material through the needle-throat 154 formed in the arched member 155 pivotally mounted upon the looper-carrier supporting frame 141, the looper loop. being maintained distended for passage of the needle in the subsequent depth stitch thrust for presentation of a succeeding loop for seizure by the lnonthreaded looper and its respective spreader,

as before described.

The bearing lug 8XX for 'the stem or spindle -140 of the loopencarriersupporting frame is shown provided with a stud 156 upon which is mounted by means of the screw-pin 157 the cord-guide 158 adapted to be swung outward for threading, as represented in Fig.y 2*?, but having its thread delivery eye-159 normally in alinement with the central aperture of the pin 139.

As in my said patent, the s1ide-pin 160 affords the pivotal connectionbetween the looper-supporting frame, the looper-carrier 143 and the tilting needle-throat carrying arched member 155; an'd this pin has fixed upon its forward end (in the position of the parts represented in Fig. 2) a collar 161 with divergent locking arms 162 and 163, adapted to embrace between them the adjacent portion of the tilting needle-throat carrying member 155. The arm 163 is slidingly tted to al fixed guideway 164 of the looper-carrier supporting frame, and the arm 162 has an inclined cam edge adjacent its locking shoulder to return the member 155'to initial position after it has been tilted out of normal position by engagement with the laterally beveled forward end. of the cutter die plate 56 as the cutter advances forP a cutting operation. The slide-pin 160 is provided upon its rearward end portion with spaced thrust-'collars 165 and 166, and intermediate such collars it is embraced by the forked lug 167 of abracketmember 168 attached by its shank 169 to the cutter-bar supportin post- 54.l The -slide-pin is further provided up'onits forward end with a bent wire 170 having an eye in its lateral portion enteredv by one end of a spring 171 whose other end is attached -to the looper-- carrier support 141, by which the locking yoke 162 163 is yieldingly maintained in operative relation with the tilting throat carrying member 155. When the cutter advances to cut a buttonhole, it carries with it the forked lug 167 whose engagement with the thrust-collar 166 serves to advance the slide-pin 160 in opposition to its spring 171, as represented in Fig. 2, previous to the engagement of the die plate 56 withl the boss surrounding the needle-throat 154 by which the latter is thrustaside to permit the cutting operation. As the cutter recedesafter performing its function, the slide-pin 160 ls permitted to return to initial position under the action of the spring 171, the camedge of the locking arm 162 engaging the member 155 moving the latter backwardly into normal or stitching position in which it is again locked as the cutter returns to retracted or inoperative position.- As the cutter approaches retracted position, the return insures the retraction of the slide-pin 160 by engagement with the thrust-collar 165 in case the spring 171 should not have previously effected this return movement.

The turning mechanism for the stitchforrning devices comprises a reciprocatory frame constructed with the upright member 172 having a lower arm 173 provided with suitable sockets 174 and 175 in'which is s ecured by screws 176 the lower rackfbar 177 having let into its forward end the rack 178 whose lateral teeth mesh with the teeth of a pinion 1752 fixed upon the spindle 140 of the looper-supporting frame 141; the upper end of the member 172 being formed with a socket 180 in which is similarly secured the rearward endof the s`lide-bar4181 having fixed upon its opposite' end the collar 182 having a perforated lug 183 in which is secured the necked rearward end of the rack 184 whose lateral teeth are' in mesh with 'the teeth of the pinion 185 formed upon the upper end of the sleeve or bushing 84. The

racks 178 and 184 are both provided with means for their slight lateral adjustment to compensate for wear.

. To impart the necessary operative movements to the reciprocatory frame whereby the stitch-forming mechanism receives an initial semierot-ation to lay the stitches radially around the semicircular end of the eye and a final semi-rotation i'n the opposite direction after the completion of a stitching operation, the lateral arm 173 is provided with a roller-stud 186 whichen ters a cam-groove 187 formed in the lower face of the horizontally arranged feed cam- Wheel 188 journaled upon a stud 189 tapped into the under side of the bed-plate 2. The

cam-groove, as indicated inFig. 4, hasl two concentric portions to maint-ainv the turning frame in its extreme positions during the side stitching operations and intermediate active portions to impart .to said frame the Los 4:,

to-and-ro movements for giving to the uped upon the listed tulcrum-st-ud and connected intermediate its ends by means ot the stud-screw 19?. 1with one end ot a link Whose opposite end is connected by means ot Vthe ladjustable stud 196 with the slotted clutclrlerer 19?Y Whose hub is tted loosely upon the hub of the cam-Wheel 198 and is provided with peripheral notches 199 torming shoulders against which rest the tape-red inwardly extending arms 200 oit the clutches 291 embracing the depending,- annular iiange 202 olf the cam-Wheel 188. The hub of the clutch-lever 197 has hired rigidly thereto the oppositely extending arnis 20S carrying adjustable contactsereivs 20a bearing against the tree ends of springs 205 fixed at the opposite ends tothe inner portions of the clutch arms 200, whereby the clutch members 201 are maintained yieldingly in craniping relation with the eedwheel flange 202 lhe feed-Wheel actuating mechanism as thus described is similan' excepting in certain details, to that shown and described in my' United States Fatent No. 862,125, dated August 6, 1997, and the teedvvheel has imparted to it the usual step-by-step rotary motion, the speed ot which may be varied by shitting the stud, 196 'radially upon the clutch-lever 197. To insure against overthroiv of the cam-Wheel, the latter is encircled by the sectional band 296 Whose inembers are connected upon one side by means of the spring 207 and are connected together and to the fixed stud 208 depending :trom the bed-plate at the opposite side by means of the adjusting Soren7 209 in a inanner well known is in my Patent No. 862,125, before mentioned, the reeds/heel is provided in its upper tace with the 'feed-actuating canigroove 210 from which is imparted to the Work-holder its longitudinal travel to space the side stitches, and a cam-groove 211 for imparting tothe Work-holder the requisite side shitting movements to insure the proper laying of the stitches in the inclined sides of the eye of the buttonhole between the cir cular end portion and the straight parallel sides et the body portion. rThe cam groove 210 vis entered by a roller-stud 212 depending from. the tree end of the slotted segmental arm 213 oit the swinging lever 214: fulcrurned upon the Xed stud 215, and in the slot oli-the arm 213 is introduced the head ol the adjustable pivotal screw 216 embraced by one end oit the linh 21'? whose opposite end portion embraoesa depending stud 218 upon bottom it tee lon movable main clainycarrying slide 219 Whose edges are VFitted to guideivays in the gibs 22C sniied by fastening screws 221 along the edges ot the bed-plate 2 by which the slide-plate is supported. The cani-groove 211 is entered by an anti-trio t ion roller 222 journaled upon a stud 223 depending` from the bottom of vertically movable slide-bolt 22e` iitted Within a transverse socket 225 at the rearward end -ot the side shi'lt lever which is tulci'unied upon the fixed stud 22T depending` from the bedplate and carries at its opposite end a slideblock 228 which fitted within a longitudinal guideway ivithin a guide-bloclr 230 depending through an a 'ture 219* in the primary work-clamp slit, -plate :troni the cross slide-plate The slide-plate 231, which constitutes an auxiliary men'iber olin the Work-clamp carrier, of l"al-shape with the forward extremity ot its forward incur ber and the rear extremity ot its side mem bers notched at 231X to enter transverse slideways termed between the to) of the main slide-plate 219 and the git 232 and 233 secured thereon. .llie parallel side nieinbers ot the slide-plate 11 have secured thereto by means oit the tiens.v e meendgroove connections and serene 235 the guide-plates 236 formed with loneitudinal guide-channels 237 in their upper races entered by the parallel members oit the spreader traine 'Whose t n ally connecting crossmember 239 carries a screw-stud 24:9 upon which is mounted the swinging lever 2&1 having in its split uptnrned forward ond the longituiflinally extending i able contact-screw and having at 'earward end the angularly arranged side and end contact laces 24st and 245. 'lhe tori/yard portions ot the side members 238 of the spreader frame have upon their upper 'faces -the convergently inclined guide-ribs 2&6

which enter correspondingly inclined zgrooves in the bottoms the clainparm beaming plates 2.47 provided with the parallel spaced bearing lugs 248 With alined apertures 2119. 'lthe parallel. transversely disposed edges 'of the plates 24"( are notched to t guidevvays formed upon the rear side between the tops oit the extension plates 236 and cap-plates 250 and 251 secured thereon and servingto conline the spreader traine members 238 intheir guideWays; While the `i`orvvard notched edges ot the plates 211'( enter slideyvays between the upper faces ot the extension plates 236 and the conversely notched rearward edges olf the clamp-closing shaft bearingI plates 252 termed with the upwardly extending bearing posts 253 and secured upon the reduced forward end por tions of the extension plates 236 by means olf' steady pins and fasteningm screws 255.

The 'forward portions oir" the clamp-arm bearing plates 241:7 yitmrmed.-n1. ennsverse grooves 256 to which are fitted depending tongues upon the end portions of the laterally and rearwardly extending arms 257 of the clamp-plates 258 let into the recessed upper face of the slide-plate 231 and constitut-ing the lower clamp members, which are secured in position by means of screws 259. The upper clamping members which are opposed to the clamp-plates 258 consist of the clamping feet 260 pivotally mounted by means of the pins 261 upon the forward extremities of the clamp-arms 262 whose rearward ends are secured by means of screws 263 upon tilting blocks 264 having depending perforated lugs 265 pivotally connected by means of the transverse pins 266 with the ears 248 of the transversely sliding plates 247. The clamp is maintained normal-ly opened by means of springs 267 interposed between the bottoms of the clamparms 262 and the tops of the plates 247.

Journaled inthe bearingsba't the upper ends of the posts 253 is the shaft 268 formed intermediate the outer ends with depending crank-arms 269 connected at their` iower extremities by t-he cross member 270 and carrying adjacent the cross member the anti-friction roller 271 lying normally in the path of movement and adapted to engage the forward face of the cutter post 54 by the movement of which the shaft 268 is adaptd to be rocked in closing the clamp. The shaft 268 has fixed thereon adjacent each of the bearing posts 253 the angular cam-blocks 272 adapted to bear upon the wearing plates 273 adjustably secured upon the clamp-arms by means of fastening screws 274 gitudinal slots 275 therein, plates having theforward end portions slightly thickened to form' inclined wearing parts, the longitudinal adjustment of which beneath the cam-block 272 serves to provide for variations in the ing feet- 260 upon the WorlL The cam- -blocks 272 are rovided with `rearwardly projecting ears 2 6 through which pass the stop-screws 277 provided Withlock nuts 278 by means of which the clamping movements of the shaft 268 under the final im'- pulse produced by theengagementvr of the eccentric portions of the cam-blocks 272 upon the Wea-ring plates 273 is determined. The forwardend of the rock-shaft y268 has fixed thereon the finger lever- 279 by means vof which the shaft may be operated manually for openin i and closing the clamp independently og the automatic actuating mechanism. l'

The clamp operating rock-shaft 268 has upon its rearward end portion the backwardly-bent crank-arm 280 extending in the opposite direction fromXt-he cremig-arms 269, the inclined extremity of its crank-arm -ly-. ing normally in the path of movement of clamp operating passing through lpnl these wearing pressure of :the clamp,

the angular extremity of the latch-block 281' pivotally mounted by means of the pin 282 in a forked lug 283 projecting downwardly from the collar 182 fixed upon thel forward end of the reciprocatory bar 181 from which the needle derives its turningA movement.. As represented in dotted lines in Fig. latch-block is normally maintained in contact with the inner extremity of the fork by means of a spring 285 surrounding the pivotal pin 282 and connected at. one end with the latch-block and at the otherend with the screw 286 upon the lug 283.

As before indicated, the advance of they cutting device to operative position brings the post 51 'into engagement with the roller 271 carried by the clamp-operating rocleshaft 268 a'nd the latter is rocked to cause the cam-blocks 272 to act upon the clamp-arms in depressing the'sane to close the clamp, thereby bringing the clamp-arm 280 in position for engagement with the latch-block 281. As-the bar 181 moves forward in imparting the initial turning movement to the needle, the latch-block yields as it engages the` arm 280 and therefore has no effect upon the lat-ter; but as the bar 181 performs its return movementin rotating the needle backwardly into initial position, the engagementI of the forward'face of the latch-block with the rearward side of the arm 280 moves the same forward and thereby turns the sha-ft 268 sufficiently to bring the angular portions of the camblocks 272'beyond'the neutral point of engagement with the wearing plates 273,u whereby the.

, springs 267 are enabled to immediately lift 'the clamp-arms 262 to open vthe clamp.

According to the present improvement the clamp-spreading frame is maintained normally in its rearward. or spreading position, and the separable sections of the clamp are brought together just before the cutting operation and are se ara-ted immediatelythereafter. To this en ,the cam-disk 69 upon the cutter-shaft carries upon its inner or ,rearward face the cam-plate 287 with eccentric'outer operative face adapted to engage the cam-face 245 of the spreader-lever 241 t-o move the spreader-frame forward to bring togetherA the clamp sections just after thev cutter commences its advance to operative position. As the cutter recedes from operative position, the point of the screw 243 is engaged by the lug 70 upon the rearward side of the cutter-frame post 54 and the spreading frame isthercby returned to initial s reading-position and the material is stretc ed preparatory to the succeeding, stitching operation. As the Spreader-fra1ne is mounted upon and travels with the clampsupporting devices, it is necessary to provide against the succeeding engagement of the contact-screw 243 with the cutter-frame, and

2, the inclined upper ledge of the fo sengage ih dnying rhs mi@ wh@ is in man.

Th@ lem'v." 2U cruuvyn @i pl'ojac by me. jogging im Wmdlj @ne slde-S level 143061 'es L 'ljeml jogmmy; which ii, communicated t0 1 opposon 't0 'tha laral mms of the needle to hmmag@ the 35 wam stitches in mnng of the bui; nhs e slijt. u rota'fv Hhfvimm'ig am 40 the fee. sam-21h65, by mcumsm, fhe lnig of dlag@ @ping sind @mi the may mi b@ such 0 bring' he undevcm ound head ELU@ 301i "with Haring 55 lateral notch e jecng zum 367.. The Toller-sind 28% has 120 3H secured upon 'a hwk/:011ml path oir' movemeu; in alim@ c'uumd by means ment nl'h tha axis G the ulcum pim G41, ih@ Sidehf m51 im h@ @mmm owel position of M1@ ing nmmnly @Tess e "lei'a E2 the Stlnght 'mwmf pmi;

6G bien with j sdQ-" cam-slot is parallel with the 125 ai, taime@ 1n, 1":5; 'dim mm 21 wammnd 130 from the ralorum-pin 64 operates, as it traverses the inclined rearward portion of the cam-slot to respectively raise and lower the cani-lever with its thrust-pin 288x.

, In the starting positions of the various parts of themachine, the several elements of the barring mechanism, as just described, are disposed as shown in Figs. 2 and 15 with the slide-bolt locked in its lower position and the roller-stud 222 within the feedwheel cam-groove 211. The parts of its mechanism remain in the same positions until the stitching of one side and a portion of the eye has been completed, when the motion of the slide-bar 181 to turn t-he needle mechanism in stitching the semi-circular end portion of the eye brings the roller-stud 284:x into the inclined portion of the camgroove 285X to lift the cam-lever 286x. The parts remain in this position, with the camlever 286x raised and the thrust-pin 288x lifted clear of the slide-bolt 22-1 until the completion of the second side-stitching operation when the trippinor of the latch-lever 312 causes the release oit the slide-bolt, the consequent withdrawal of the stud 222 from the cam-groove 211, and the entrance of the lateral stud 308 into the socket 304: of the clamp-jogging lever arm 303 for the balrringsr operation. In this condition of the barring mechanism the stitching mechanism is subsequently stopped by means presently to be described and the stitch-forming mechanism thereafter turned back to initialposition by a reciprocal movement of the slide-bar 181, which depresses the cam-lever 286X and thus causes the engagement of the thrustpin 288X with -the top of the slide-bolt 224 (now in its raised position) to force the latter downwardly and thereby disengage the pin 306 from the socket 304 of the clamp-jogging lever and bring the rollerstud 222 again into the cam-groove 211 in which position it is maintained by the engagement of the latch-plate l311 with the notch 310 of the slide-bolt. It Vwill tlius be seen that the thrust-pin 288 acts inconjunctiomwith the latch-lever 312 in maintaining theconnection between the feed-wheel and side-shift lever during the first side- -stitching operation, the thrust-pin 288x is retracted during the eye-stitching operation, and the latch-lever 312 is retracted to establish barring conditions at the end of the side-stitching operation; and that sidest-itchin condition is restablished independent y of the action of the barring mechanism and subsequently to the completion of a stitching operation while the stitchforming mechanism is being turned throu h a final semi-rotation to bring it to initlal side-stitching position.

As disclosed more fully in my Patent No.

864,144, before mentioned adjacent the 55 loose driving pulley 16 is secured upoxi the main-shaft 9 the hub 317 of a clutch-wheel or ,disk 318 recessed at one portion of its periphery for the recept-ion of a clutch-plate 319 interposed between said wheel and the wall of a chamber for the same in the'loose 70 pulley, said wheel also having a Asegmental recess upon the inner side 'of said platefor the reception of a cam projection 320 upon a clutch-ring 321 which has a pivotal connection with said clutch-wheel by means` of said projection to'enable the clutch-ring to swing slightly relative to the clutch-wheel on said projection as a center or pivot, thus causing the cammed or tiattened outer portion of said projection to clamp the clutchplate tightly against the wall of the chamber in the pulley 1G when the latter is to be connected to the driving shaft 9. The clutch-ring 321 is provided with a pin 322 extending within a recess in the clutch-wheel 318 containing a spring 323 bearing against said pin so as to force the parts into clutching position, as shown in Fig. 9. AThe clutchring '321 is provided at its periphery vwith a notch 32st for the reception of a lug or Vprojection 325 on a vertically movable block 326 carried by the stop-motion lever 327 pivotally mounted in a bracket 328 on `the baseor frame of the machine by means of the'jrock-shaft 329 upon which said lever is 95 rigidlyniounted, a spring 330 mounted in a recess'in said lever serving to press said blockyieldingly downward, and said clutchring 321 heilig provided wit-h an eccentric or cam project-ion 331 to engage said lug or projection 325 to lift the same for br l ing the final rotation of the shaft 9 and causing said projection to fall into the notch 324 so as to swing the clutch-ring slightly in opposition to the action of the spring 323- for 105 release of the clutch-plate 319 when the stopmotion lever has been tripped andlf-tlie machine is to be stopped. The stop-lever'327 is provided at its upper vend withba forwardly extending thrust-plate v332 between arecess in the forward face of whichand the standard 3 of the bracket-arm is interposed a spring 333 tending to throw the lower operative portion of the lever forwardly to bring the -lug or projection 325 115 of the block 326 into operative relation with the clutch-ring 321 to stop the machine.

Fixed upon one end of the pivotal rockshaft- 329 of the stop-lever 327 is a forwardly extending arm 334 carrying at its extremity 12o;

a stud-screw 335 upon which is mounted the anti-friction roller 336 disposed adjacent the cam-wheel 78 and adapted to be engaged by the eccentric outer operative edge 337 ot'- a cam-plate 338 secured vby screws 339 upon the rearward face of said cam-wheel. As the cutter-shaft 19 completes a rotation in performing a cutting operation, thelpwcr portion ofthe cam edge 337 of thecam-plate 338 engages the roller 386 of the stop-lever shitting arm 334e and depresses the same,

whereby the lug' 32e 1s disengaged rroilu the notch 3% ot the camsrmg 321 to permit the "latter to assume under the action of the spring 323 eccentric relation with the main- Ashaft 9" to cause the stud 390 to nip the l mounted upon the fixed fulcrum-pin 343 and is'dravvn toward the rearward side ot the machine by means of a springr Bali interposed betWeen a pin 3512X on said lever and an eye 345 upon the inner face ot the base l. The other member 346 of the yoke ot the locking lever is also provided with a laterally projecting finger 34:7 the rearward edge of which lies in the path of movement of uthe extremity ot the arm 348 of a tripping lever mounted upon the lined ralorum-pin 349 and having a bentJ arm 350 to which is adjustaldly secured the nose-piece 351 by means of a olemp-screw 352 ot the latter entering a longitudinal slot 353 in the former7 whereby the tooth 354i at the open ative end of the nose-piece may be adjusted toward and from the fulcrum 349 of the lever. The arm 3&8 is provided vvith a` lateral stopypin 355 whose extremity is adapted to engage the side wall of the base 1 in 'one extreme position of the lever7 under the action oit the spring 344C through the yiolred locking,1 lever 342, While its tiltingr action to throwthe lockinfv lever backwardly to disengage the loclridg nger 340 trom the shittlever 334, is imparted loya tripping stud 356 formed upon the periphery ot the iced camwheel 188 near the tripping stud 316.

It is evident that, in lieu ot the adjustment of the .nosspiece 351 above described, the

tripping stud 356 may be adj ustably mount ed upon the feed cam-vvheel similarly to the tripping stud 195 ot my Patent No. 751,239. By reference to the drawings, it will be observed .that the parts 315 and 354 are arranged ajl; substantially the same point in the circumference of the :toed-Wheel 'While the tripping points 316 and 356 are spaced apart so as to act successively upon their respective following members with an interval during which the stitch-forming mechanism continues its action in performing a' barring operation prior to the tripping oiu the stop-motion device to arrest the action of the stitch-forming mechanism. lt is evident that by varying the relative tripping positions of the barring and' stop-motion mechanisms the number ot barrin f stitches produced prior to the stopping ot t e stitchingn mechanism muy be correspondingly varied independently ci" the number ci? the side or (overimfg` stitches previously produced around the edges oi' the buttonhole slit, llt will be turther observed that, by reason oic 'the mutual independence ont the several means whereby the throw ci the link 2l? tor transmitting the longitudinal feeding movements to the work-clamp? the amplitude ot vibratory movements ot the clutclrlever lili for imparting the stcp-bystep rotary movements to the feed-wheel 183 may be varied, and whereby the timing ot the action ot the stop-motion may be modified, the number and spacing of the side and covering stitches and the number ot the barring stitches may be deterniined independently, and the machine is thus adapted tor suoli adjustment as to enable it to operate upon either cloth or leather in all cases wherein the cutting mechanism is to operate in advance ot the stitchtorming mechanism, while certain ot these tentures are equally applicable to a machine adapted to perform the buttonhole slit cutting operation subsequent to stitching, as will be evident. llt is obvious that by so adjusting the machine that. the tripping1 ot the stop-motion m`will occur before the barring mechanism comes into action the previously stitched buttonhole will be lett in uubarred condition, and may be subsequently barred, it desired, by employment ot' a special nur chine for the purpose. lln the aecon'xpanying drawings, the range oit adjustment ot the nose-piece 351 is represented as comparatively small, but in practice the degree of adjustment is substantially equal to the distance between the tripping studs 318 and 356u'liicl1 may also be made adjustable as hetero explained9 it desired.

lldfhen the stop-motion device is actuated to stop the machine at the completion of the stitclrtorming operation, the stitch-torming mechanism remains in the position in which it stitched the second side orf the buttonhole, a se1ni-rotation from initial position, and under normal conditions the barring` mechanism is still operatively connected with the side-shift lever 226. ln order to return the parts to initial position iior repeating 4the stitching operation, the movement ot 4the liced-Wheel 188, -Which has been stopped aider only a partial rotation, must be continued to complete a toll rotation. 'limo this endt the feed-Wheel is provided 'with a segmental series ot ratchet# teeth 357 adapted for successive engagement by the wedge-shaped extremity 358 of a reciprocetory pavvl bar 359 Whose rearward end is pivotally connected by means ot the screivpin 360 with the upwardly en tending cranlrarm 381 tired upon an oscilletting sleeve 3t 2 mounted upon the crossshatt 383 journaled in suitable bearings of the base "i, said sleeve being provided withwww a lateral crank-arm 364 to which is pivotally connected by means of the screw 365 the upper end of an eccentric strap 366 embracing an eccentric 367 formed upon the hub of the loose pulley-wheel 16 and adapted to rotate continuously therewith independently of thevrotation of the main-sha`ft- 9. Mounted upon a` fixed fulcium-screw 368 carried by a bracket 369 attached to the base 1 is a plural-armed rocker having one arm 370 formed with a depending linger 371 normally resting against the inner face of the pawl bar 359 against which it is yieldingly pressed .by means'of the spring 372 fastened to a second arm 373 of the rocker by means of a screw 374. The rocker is provided with a tliirdinwardly extending arm 375 connected by means of the pivotal screw 376 to the .forward end of a connecting rod 377 whose rearward end is pivotally connected by means of the pin 378 witha stud 379 carried bythe stoplever 327. `When the stop-lever is shifted to start the machine, the rod 377 is drawn backward to tilt the rocker upon its'pivotalstud 368, whereby the constantly reciprocating pawl-bar 359 is retracted to disengage it from the periphery of the feed-wheel 188; butwlien the stop-motion is trippedY and the lever 327 is rocked into operative position to stop the rotation of the mainshaft and the connected parts, the rod 377 moves forward to bring the operative end of the pawl bar 359 into operative relation with the ratchet-teeth 357 of the feed-wheel in which relation it is maintained by the yielding action of the spring 372. The pawl bar continues its action upon the rack until it reaches the wearing portion 357X,'as

represented in F ig. 147 whenv it continues its reciprocatory movements idly until the actuation of the stop-lever for a succeeding stitching operation, at which time the feedV cam-wlieel is picked up by the primary actuating clutch mechanism before described and the pawl-bar is thrown out of contact relation with the periphery of the feed-wheel. i It will be observed that according to the present improvement the primary feed-wheel actuating mechanism is in constant operative relation with the c am. and that inimediatel'yafter the barringa`c-f t-ion the auxiliary oi supplemental actuating mechanisinincluding the` pawl har 359f comes additionally lintoV operative relation with the feed-cam without disturbing .the primaryv actuating mechanism.l i'

The `clutch-controllin'g lever 36 is. pros.` vided adjacentiits fulcrum 35A with an inf.

wardly extending arm 36* ltowhich issecured by screws 380 the footk381 cfa rigid.. arm 382 extending backof the standardB of the bracket-arm andhaving a lateral stop-finger 383 whose extremity is-presentedl to the forward face of `the thrust-plate 332 vassume .when the clutch-controlling leverf 36 'has been retracted to start the buttonhole cutting operation, as represented in Journaled in a bearing lug 384 depending from the head 5 of the bracket-amm and in bearings in the standard .3, is a horizontally arranged reciproca'tory starting rod 385 carrying near its forward end the de- `pending'iingeikpiece 386`a1id pivotally coni nectedat its rearward end by means of the.

pinl 387 with the upper end of an upright shift-'lever-388 fulcrumed upon a transverse pin 389 and having a convex cam portion 390 adapted to engage the front face of the 'stop-arm 382 carried by the clutch-control-vv linglever 36. In the top of its forward portion the starting rod 385 is formed wit-h a notch 391 adapted to be'entered by the` lower operative edge of the forward arm' 392 of the detaining lever fulcrumed upon the shouldered screw 393 affording the lowerv fastening device for the i face-'plate and having Aa rearwardly extending arm 394 whose upper edge is normally pressed against the lower side of the rack-bar 184 under the impulse of a spring 395. The forward poi-tion of the rack-bar is cut away upon its under side to permit the 392 to drop into the notch 391 of the starting rod excepting whenthe rack-bar 184 isin its extreme forward and initial position, where the arm 394 rests upon the rounded bottomof the bar by which the locking arm 392 is maintainedk lifted above nthe not-ch A,

391.v The starting rod is thusdisengaged from the locking arm `392 when .the turning mechanism for the ,stitch-forming devices is in initial position, but is thereafter' locked from operative movement after the -stitch-` forming mechanism `turns inthe stitching of a buttonholeuntil the feed-cam completes a full rotation in the latter portion of which the' engagement of the roller-stud 186 of the reci'procatory turning frame with lthevcamgroove 187 serves to restore the rstitch-forming mechanism to initial position by means of which the lever 392 394 is rocked upon its i pivotal VVscrew 393 `to unlock the starting rod ,for a succeedingr operation.v -When thelever 36 isinnormal stopping position, as repre`` sented in Figs. 1 and 5,' preparatory to the .performance of a cycle-of operation, the

pressure ofthe operator upon the finger-j Zpiece 386v causes the backward movement lof `the rod 385 and consequent engagement" )ofy .theshift-lever 388 with the arm 382ffof the clutchecontrolling lever, by means o f which the latter is thrown backwardly in' opposition to thespring 42, the 'stud 45 being .shiftcdaxially from' the'forward straight portion off the camgroove 44 to the rear- Ward portion, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 3. This movement disengages the lug 33 of the slide-block 25 from the cainplate 37 of the lever 36 and ermits the coupling of the loose and fixe Wheels 2O and 22 to perform a rotation of the cuttershaft for the clamp-operating and buttonhole cutting movements before described. As the cutter-shaft nears the completion ol? its rotary movement the cam-plate 338 engages the roller 336 of the stop-lever shift-- ing arm 334 whereby the shaft 329 is rocked and the stop-lever 327 tilted to permit the operative engagement of the clutch members of the driving shaft, the rotation of the latter causing the described operation ol the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms to produce the side or covering stitches along the sides and rounded end of the buttonhole slit, and the throwing in of the jogging mechanism and the jogging of the clam-p in opposition to the lateral needle movements to produce barring stitches ot increased le th at the narrow end of the buttonhole. s the stop-motion is tripped to arrest the action of the stitch-forming mechanism and other parts operatively connected with the main-shaft, the rocker connected with the stoplever, by which the position of the paWl-bar 359 is controlled, is turned upon its supporting fulcrum and the pawl-bar brought into operative relation With the ratchet-teeth 357 presented thereto by the rotation of the feed-wheel under the action of its primary 'actuating devices, and the step-by-step movement of the eed-wheel is thus continued at an increased speed and by positively engaging means to bring it to initial position where its motion is arrested by presentation of the final wearing portion 357K of the ratchet member to the point 358 of the pawl-bar 359. The increased s ed of movement of the feed-wheel to initial position'is caused by the comparatively long traverse of the pawl-bar 359 and correspondingly wide vspacing of the ratchet-teeth 357 in relation to the normal movement of the feed-Wheel under the action of its actuating clutch mechanism during the edge-stitching which includes the ap lication of the covering stitches to the sidesand eyelet end of the buttonhole slit. As before explained, the cam-plate 3? of the lever 36 begins to resume operative ition after the cutter-shaft i9 has perined a artial rotation, under ,the action of the spring 42 and the groove 44 of the camwylinder, and as the cam-shaft approaches the end of its rotation the lu 33 rides down the inclined cam-edge 33 o the plate 37 and over the latchlate 48 into enageinent with the shoul er 39 and the fewer edge of the latch-plate, being simui taneously thrust inward to disengage the tooth 34 from' its respective notch 29 he Locarno tween the teeth 30 oi the loose pulley-Wheel 29. As previously stated, when the clutchcontrolling lever 36 is shifted to start the cutter-shaft i9, the stop-linger 383 is shifted nearl into Contact with the forward face of thet rust-plate 332 carried by the stoplever, whereby the latter is prevented from being tilted vvhile the cutting devices are in action, but as the leverl 36 resumes initial position, the stop-nger 363 is advanced to permit the actuation of the stop-lever 327. When, however, the finger 363 is in the position last described, with the thrustplate 332 in substantially the relation represented. in Fig. 7, but with the stop-lever shifted into position to cause the main-shaft 9 to rotate, the clutch of the cutter-shaft is prevented from being actuated, as any attempted inovement ot the controlling lever 36 Would bring the stop-linger 333 rigidly connected therewith into engagement with the thrust-plate 332 of the starting lever which latter is locked in operative position by means of the spring-pressed lock ing lever 3.42. It will thus be seen that et feet-ive means are provided in the present machine for preventing the starting ot the main-shaft 9 While the cutter-shaft is rotating, or preventing the throwing of the cutter-shaft 19 into operation while the main-shaft is in motion.

rlllie top of the lateral member 4 of the bracketarm is shown formed with an aperture 396 which is normally closed by a cap 397 secured in posit-ion by means' of screws 389. The cap 39? has an opening 399 through Which passes the upper arm of the take-up lever 400 formed at its upper extremity with a thread-eye 401 and ulcrumed withw in the bracket-arm upon a fixed screw-stud 402. The take-up lever has a depending arm 403 carrying a studV 404 which enters agroove in the take-up cam 405 xed upon the needle-actuating shaft 13 from which the take-up lever derives two operative vin bratory movements for each rotation of said shaft. The cap 39?y is provided with a forwardly projecting lug 406 in which is secured the tubular tension stud 407 provided at one end with the head 408 and in the opposite externally three Hled end with the longitudinal slit 409. Surrounding the slitted end portion ot the stud 40( is the rotary tension-wheel 410 with peripheral thread-groove which is forced against the adjacent face of the lug '406, or the usual interposed friction washers, by means of the spring 4H interposed between the adinstable nut 412 applied to the outer end ot the stud 407 and the Washer 413 formed with an aperture embracing the stud having a cross-member 4l4 .passing through the slit 499. ln the arial aperture ot the stud llO 49d is introduced the releasing pin 415 bear' ing at one end upony the crossme'mber 444 i the forked upper end of a rod 420 whose vlower end is pivoted by means of the pin 421 between upwardly extending ears 422 'upon one of the clamp-closing cam-blocks. When the rock-shaft 268 is turned to close the clamp, the rod 420 is drawn downward and imparts a corresponding movement of the tension-controlling lever 417, which serves to free the pin 415 to enable the spring 411 to perforrriits normal function in applying a drag to the rotation of the vtension-wheel; but when the rock-shaft 268 is automatically moved in the opposite direction to open thec'lamp, the lever 417 is lifted and the pin 415 is forced forwardly to shift the washer 413 in opposition to the spring'411 for relieving the dragupon the tension-wheel.

-`Intermediate the tension-wheel 41'0 and tlje take-up lever 400 is interposed a threadnrnping device. A11 upwardly extending lug 423 upon t-he cap 397 carries a tubular bearing boss 424 in. one end owhich is introduced. the fixed nipper member425, while in its'forward end portion is inserted in alinement therewith the plug 426 'constituting the movable nipping member, which is' pro. vided with a lateral screw-.pin 427 passing through a slot428 in the side of the boss 424 and engaged by the hooked end of a nipper opening spring 429 secured at its opposite end by means ofthe screw 430vupon the cap 397. The top ofthe cap 397 is formed with a lug 431 and an adjacent transverse slot 432 in which latter is pivoted byfmeans of the pinf433 the nipper-actuating lever of which one arm 434 carries the adjustable contact-screw 435 with'j'am-nut 436, and the other depending arm 437 is forked at its lower end to receive the anti-friction roller 438 journaled upon the pin 439 and bearing upon the actuating cam' 440 upon the rotary shaft 13. The cam 440 is so shaped as to impart two actuations of the lever 434 437 for each rotation of the shaft 13 so as to produce a nipping and releasing action, timed in a wellknown manner, for each reciprocation of the'needle. Surrounding' the outer lend ofthestud 407, and interposed betweenV its head 408 and the bearing lug 406 is the thread check-spring 441 havin the usual eyed spring-arm 442 throu which the thread passes as it is led from t e tension-wheel to the eye of the take-up lever preparatory to itsz-passage'through the eye of the reciprocatory thread-guiding member 112 into the hollow needle-bar.

In threading the upper thread mechanism, the needle thread a is led from the source of supply through a thread-guide 443 upoxijshc cap 397, thence to the tension-wheel 410 around which it is given a turn and a half, and from which it is led over the guideshoulder 444 and between the xed and movable members of the thread-nipping device to the eye 401 of the take-up lever,from which it is led forwardly over the guide-pin 445 and .through the eye in the guide-finger 113 vof the reciprocatory Arod 112 into the needle-bar from whose lower end it emerges and is passed through the eye of the needle.

The looper thread b, in its passage to the eyed looper, is taken from the thread 'sup-l ply and led through an aperture 446 in the 4 rear side of the base, thence through a guide-eye 447 upon the ycap 8x of the for-` ward hearing member 8, between tension disks 448 of a tension device also' mounted.

upon the cap 8", thence through the -eye`449 at the free end of a check-spring 450 working between the outturned ends of stop-pins 451 and 452 adjustably secured upon the cap 8x by means' of screws 453 and 454, respec tively, and from the eye 449 is led successively through suitable guide-eyes inthe pins 455 and 456 uponthe adjustable plate l 457 secured upon the cap 8x by the screw 458 into the flared lower end of the hollow vertically reciprocating pin 139, `from the upper end of which it is led to the eye of the looper 144.

The operation of the upper and lower stitch-forming devices in handling the .respective threads of the overseam is substantiallyA the same as is described in my lPatent prior patents referred to therein, and a detailed description thereof is not therefore No. 945,148, before mentioned, and in the f here necessary to an understanding of the present improvement.

To insure the proper guidance of the'edge" of the fabric to which the buttonholes are Y to be a plied, the cross slide-plate 231 has prefere ly secured at the front side by means of the fastening screw 459 one end of asapgoiting arm 460 end a jacent the clamping feet 260 with an upturned guide-lip 461 against which the -edge of the material rests in shifting the same between buttonhole stitching and cutv ting operations. l

From the foregoing description,v it will be observed that the present machine' is of that type in which an overseam stitch involving twol punctures of the material within and back of the slit is ovided for each rotation of the main-sha t and the needleactuating shaft rotating in unison ltherewith, but it differs from such machines yin that, instead of employing two straight needles) it has only a single laterally jogrovided at its free ging-needle to which is imparted two re- Y j ciprocat-ions for each rotation of the mainshaft, thus making it'practicable to employ the class of .looper mechanism herein sharm reciprocation of the needle with a comparatively show movement of the actuating4 devices for the other moving parts. llhns the driving' of the heavier parts at slow speed and the employment of the speed accelerating trommel device for imparting the multiple reciprocations to the needle imposes a comparatively light load upon the stop-motion mechanism by which the shoclr of stopping the moving parte is reduced machine; While the load imposed upon the driving member in overcoming the inertia ofthe moving parts in starting the mechanism is correspondingly diminished by the moderate speed at which the parte are required to operate, whereby the full speed of the mechanism is promptly attained after --smrting and the eiciency of the machine is correspondingly increased. Another advantage gained by the present improvement, especially in beginning the stitching,1 of a buttonhole is the uniformity with which the feed of the tvorlr is edected, owing to the promptness of the actuating; parts in reaching,n a normal speed, and hence the uniformity of action of the friction clutch mechanism by which the feed cam- Wheel 188 is drivenu The hinged front section 1" of the base 1 is shown provided nponits inner face with the tension device do2 through which the cord is led from the source Vof supply to the guide-eyes of the cord-guide arm 158.

As described in my said peinline,1 application, thel needle is so disposed and its jogging mechanism is so constructed and arranged that the needle is in both its edge stitch and depth stitch positions ,eccentric to the axis of oscillation of the needle-bar; while the feed cam-groove 210 and sideshift groove, 211 of the 'cam-Wheel 1d@ are so formed as to impart to the clamp the longitudinal and lateral movements represented dia rammatically in Fig. 60 of thepdravvings 0% my Patent No. 734,791-, dated duly 28, 1903, the travel of the clamp being wholly arrested during the semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism, vvhile the semi-circular end of the lonttonhole is 66 covered with its radial stitches, rile the A tively rapid rate by reason of the rapid',

to a minimum for a given, output of the forms of the cam-grooves 210 and 211 are determined by the shape and character of' the buttonhole to be produced, in practice the cani-groove 210 is formed With a dwell to arrest the longitndinal travel of the clamp for the barring operation and the groove 211 is suitably formed to laterally shift theclamp so that the barring stitches will he properly placed. As represented in Fig'. 141, the side-shift cam-groove 211 is formed With an enlargement 211X at the barring position to insure the free and unobstructed entrance of the roller-stud 223V into the same after each barring operation. ln the present embodiment of the improvement the cam-Wheel 188 is shovvn as a simple disk, but it Will be readily seen that the form and relation ofv its operative portions is immaterial so long as they are suitably shaped and arranged to perform their described functions and are connected to re- -ceive their circular operative movements in unison.

llt is evident that the present improvement, in many of itsfeatures, is susceptible of Wide variation in construction and arrangement of parts, and itis therefore to be understood that the present inventionis not limited to the specic embodimenty of its several partsherein shown and described.

Having thus set forth the nature ofthe invention, what ll claim herein is 1. lln a louttonhole stitching machine, the combination with overseamin stitch-forming mechanism, turning mec anism therefor, and feeding mechanism for producing relative feeding movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the Work and including means for. determining the .anna-- ber of edge-stitches to be formed, Avvherelfiy 195 an eyelet-end buttonhole comprising a series of edge-stitches and a plurality of barring stitches at the smaller endmay he produced, of controlling means, ineffective darin@U the production of the edge-stitches, 11G whereby the number of barring stitches may be varied independently 1of the number of edge-stitches.

2. lin a buttonhole stitching machine, the combination with overseaming stitch-forming mechanism, means for rotating the stitch-forming' mechanism for stitching the eye ofthe buttonhole, and mechanism for producing-relative feeding movements be- 4 tween the stitch-forming mechanism and the Work and including means for determining the number of edge-stitches to be formed, of barring mechanism, and means independent thereof, and acting independently of the controlling means for the edgestitches, whereby the period of action of the barring mechanism, and hence the number of barring1 stitches, may be varied irrespective of the number of edge-stitches.

3., ln a linttonhole stitching machine, the 13 

